Frozen Phenomenon
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By Kate Burrows   
Sunday, 01 July 2007
smc Stephen Herrell, founder of Herrell’s Ice Cream Corp., took the industry by storm by becoming the first to mix name-brand candy and cookies into scoops of high-quality ice cream, he says.
Stephen Herrell, founder of Herrell’s Ice Cream Corp., took the industry by storm by becoming the first to mix name-brand candy and cookies into scoops of high-quality ice cream, he says.
After years of creating home-made ice cream with his family, Stephen Herrell understands what it takes to create a hit flavor, perhaps better than many other so-called connoisseurs. As a pioneer in the business, Herrell made a name for his company by becoming the first to mix name-brand cookies and candy, such as Oreos and Heath bars, into scoops of ice cream.

Today, many national chains have found success building on Herrell’s idea. However, the difference is in the ice cream itself. “Cold Stone, for example, has been expanding recently based on this concept, but I don’t think their ice cream even compares to ours,” Herrell asserts. “They are building their business based on the gimmick, rather than the sheer quality of ice cream like we do.”

When a competitor opened one block from Herrell’s Ice Cream in Northampton, Mass., it only managed to stay in business for a year and a half. “They couldn’t compete with us,” Herrell says. “We’ve had customers come back here and tell us the ice cream was not that great. We have a strong following out here.”

Quality Control
The company has five locations in Massachusetts, one commissary located near Boston, and has license agreements in place to open locations in Miami and New York City. Its approximately 160 flavors of ice cream also are offered in various restaurants and select grocery stores in the region, Herrell adds.

Each ice cream shop is run independently, through either franchisees or licensees, but Herrell himself works closely with store operators to ensure quality is maintained in each store, through regular meetings and store visits. In addition, three of the four locations manufacture ice cream on site, and the fourth obtains ice cream from Herrell’s commissary.

Trial and Error
The key to high-quality ice cream, Herrell says, is using the right equipment to create a rich consistency. “In a real, hand-cranked ice cream freezer, you can make the product with a very low amount of air in it,” Herrell explains. “The less air in ice cream, the richer and creamier it seems. But, the right equipment just wasn’t available to make it this way commercially [when I founded the company].”

So, after purchasing a commercial ice cream maker, Herrell set out to adjust the machine himself. “I tried to alter the transmission of the machine, so we could achieve the results of a hand-cranked ice cream freezer,” Herrell says. “I installed a gear reducer to slow the machine down. That was a significant thing, and other companies since then have started making equipment that imitated that style.”

This cutting-edge machine was placed against the window of Herrell’s first shop in 1973, Steve’s Ice Cream, for all to see. According to Herrell, Ben & Jerry’s founders Ben Cohen and Jerry Greenfield visited the ice cream parlor several times before starting their own ice cream business, and were curious about the machine in the window.

The Right Stuff
Although consistency is the key to creating high-quality ice cream, flavor is even more important. Herrell takes his time when creating new flavors, and has hands-on contact with the product-development process at all times.

Some new flavors come together seamlessly, but others are in development for years. “Outside the question of consistency and a decent butterfat content, what the ice cream tastes like is the most important thing,” Herrell explains.

“Many small ice cream manufacturers will only deal with one flavor house, and they’re limited to whatever line that supplier offers,” Herrell continues. “But, we work with a number of suppliers, many of whom we only buy one item from, which gives us many more ways to flavor our ice cream.”

One of the shop’s unique creations is its Maple Bourbon ice cream, which was inspired by Herrell’s trip to a local barbecue restaurant. The restaurant’s barbecue sauce made such an impression that he began experimenting with a maple syrup and bourbon combination that came together in an interesting way.

Staying Local
Herrell’s Ice Cream shops have become a staple in each local community, and the company says it has a responsibility to give back to the people who support the business. Rather than using traditional advertising vehicles, the company donates coupons to community events and places ads in school bulletins.

“We would much rather buy an ad in a high school band concert program, or donate gift certificates to fundraising events,” Herrell explains. “We try to participate in activities that are not only good for Herrell’s, but also for the community.”
 
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